Skip to content

Coconut crab cakes with sweet cucumber pickle

coconut crab cakes with sweet cucumber pickle

My kitchen is showing signs of a burgeoning coconut obsession – I currently have coconut water and yogurt in the fridge and a store cupboard containing everything from desiccated coconut to coconut oil.

Coconut oil takes me back to my childhood holidays. My mum would always buy a jar from the chemist for us to moisturise with after sunbathing, to maintain our hard-won English seaside suntans for as long as possible. I remember putting the jar by the fire to warm, waiting for the solid mass to melt into clear oil, ready to anoint my skin with its lovely coconutty scent.

My coconut oil comes from the health food store these days and it seems to be enjoying a bit of a renaissance in the culinary world. It seemed the natural choice to use to cook these lovely little coconut crab cakes. They have plenty of coconut in them, which blends so well with a southeast asian inspired palate of ginger, chilli and coriander.

ingredientsI wanted to make a crab cake with as few other ingredients as possible. For this reason I’ve left out the customary breadcrumbs used to bind the cakes together, adding more coconut to the mixture instead. This has the upside of making them delectably crabby, but the downside is that they are a quite fragile. To be honest, a tablespoon or two of breadcrumbs would probably firm them up nicely, but I was content with these soft, delicate little cakes as they were.

Start by making the cucumber pickle, which adds a satisfying crunch and tang to the plate. Its not a proper pickle, more of a marinade I guess. Cut about a 2 inch length of cucumber into 1cm strips. Deseed them and then cube the remaining flesh. In a small bowl mix 1tbsp white wine vinegar with 1tbsp caster sugar and stir until the sugar dissolves. Add a pinch of salt and then the cubes of cucumber. Put in the fridge for an hour or so to infuse.

coconut coatingI recently discovered little 100g pots of half white and half dark crabmeat in the supermarket, which are ideal for this. Put 100g mixed crabmeat into a bowl and then add 1tsp grated root ginger, half a red chilli, finely chopped, the zest of half a lime, 1 spring onion, finely chopped and a small handful of chopped coriander. Then stir in a scant teaspoon of mayonnaise and 3 tbsp desiccated coconut. At this point taste the mixture and see if you want to adjust the flavourings at all. Then separate 1 egg and lightly whisk the white with a pinch of salt before adding about half of it to the mix. Half an egg white seems abut ridiculous I know, but I’ve tried making these without it and they just fall apart.

coated crabcakePut the mixture into the fridge for around an hour, which will help the mixture to firm up a bit and also allow the flavours to develop.

Once chilled, you need to form the little cakes. Cover a plate with a generous layer of desiccated coconut. Form heaped tablespoons of the mixture into rounds and drop onto the coconut. The crab mix will remain quite sticky, but should form cakes quite easily. Thoroughly coat the cakes with the coconut.

Heat a tablespoon of coconut oil in a frying pan. If you don’t have coconut oil use another flavourless oil. You will need to keep the heat quite low to prevent the coconut coating from burning. Cook gently for a couple of minutes until golden brown, then turn gently. They will be very delicate so turn with care.

Once cooked, drain the cucumber and serve with the warm crab cakes.

Makes one lavish lunch.

coconut crab cakes

Shopping list:

100g crabmeat, a mix of white and dark meat

1 spring onion,

1 red chilli, or 1/4 teaspoon of lazy chilli,

small bunch coriander

1 lime

1 knob fresh ginger

100g dessicated coconut

1 egg

cucumber

white wine vinegar

caster sugar

coconut oil (optional)

 

Raspberry cream cheese blondie

raspberry cream cheese blondie

I’ve made two batches of this in the last week, that’s how much I like this recipe! I like a big tray-bake to feed a crowd, so it was the perfect choice for this weekend, when we had lots of friends over for a picnic and games on the common, now nicknamed “Tootfest!” I am lucky to have an increasing number of friends living in my local area, a wonderful little community which makes London seem less vast and makes having a gathering like this so much more achievable.

Read more

A morning at Borough market, Turrón semifreddo with marinated cherries

Turron semifreddo with marinated cherries

When I first moved to London I lived just a couple of streets from Borough market, so barely a weekend would go by without me passing through for one thing or another. I still love to go there, content to drift along with the tides of people surging through the place. Whilst there has been a proliferation of excellent markets across London, Borough remains the grande dame, unbeatable for quality and variety, even if the prices can be a little ambitious. My favourite place in all of London is probably the pavement opposite Monmouth coffee, sitting on the kerb with a cup of steaming coffee, listening to the rumble and creak of trains passing overhead, watching the world go by.

Read more

Broad bean and mozzarella toasts

Broad bean and mozzarella toasts

I’m not one to pick favourites, but if I had to, broad beans would definitely be on my list. Their delicate, fresh green flavour is the epitome of summer to me. They have a wonderful affinity with the fresh lemon zest, fragrant basil and rich creamy buffalo mozzarella in this recipe.

Preparing broad beans is a labour of love. I always, always double-pod mine. For both flavour and aesthetic reasons, I like the bright green inner bean to be completely disrobed. Broad beans lead such a cosseted life,  enveloped in the thick, soft wadding that forms their pod; the vegetable equivalent of a cashmere blanket. The beans inside have a tough white skin which also needs to be removed. I have read many times that if you catch the beans when they are young enough, this white skin is edible, but I’ve never found it to be anything other than slightly bitter and so I remove it as a matter of course. Read more

Apricot and almond tart

apricot and almond tartI cannot resist the abundance of fruit that appears during the brief summer months. My shopping basket is crammed with punnets of nectarines, apricots, raspberries, strawberries, cherries; mostly destined to be devoured by the handful, loitering by the open fridge door.

I have a bit of a love-hate relationship with apricots. I’ve always found dried apricots to be a total abomination, their flavour resembling that of  shrivelled up cold teabags. And fresh apricots can seldom be caught at that perfect point of ripeness. I am often seduced by a blushing, fresh fruit only to discover that the pretty soft skin is disguising a dry and woolly interior. For me, the magic only truly happens when you cook an apricot. Suddenly they are gloriously transformed into everything you always hoped they would be – fragrant and juicy, with sweet, tender honey flavoured flesh.

Almonds are the perfect partner to so many summer fruits and apricots are no exception. The two combine beautifully in this nutty, moist tart; lovely after dinner with a scoop of vanilla ice cream or stashed in a cake tin for those mid-afternoon munchies. Read more

Caipirinha chicken, yogurt flatbreads, spicy pepper sauce, herb salad

caipririnha chicken, yogurt flatbreadsIt’s virtually impossible to ignore a certain sporting event going on in Brazil at the moment, it’s even invaded my kitchen!

I have fond food memories from my travels in Brazil. Plenty of balmy evenings were spent relaxed in a bar, enjoying the amazing array of snacks and small plates paraded around, tempting you to seize the opportunity before they pass by. Platters piled high with hot coxinhas – delicious gooey croquettes filled with chicken and cheese, pão de queijo, empadinhas, outsized skewers of grilled meats…all ready to be washed down with a cold caipirinha or two.

So back to the balmy-ish days of June in the UK, where a warm summer’s evening brings the inevitable scent of charcoal wafting on the breeze.  I find the lovely long light evenings of June just enchanting, when it is light and warm till nearly 10pm. If the temperature holds up, an evening sat outside in the garden till twilight is a rare treat.

So the combination of a long warm evening, the BBQ out and Brazil on my mind led me to dream up caipirinha chicken. I wouldn’t imagine for a second that this dish has even an inkling of Brazilian authenticity to it, but I liked it anyway. Read more

Prawn, feta and watermelon lettuce wraps

prawn, watermelon and feta wrapsA crisp, crunchy, refreshing light lunch for a hot summer’s day. This is a quick dish to assemble, so minimal risk of the sun disappearing behind a cloud whilst you are in the kitchen.

Sweet, fragrant watermelon is perfect combined with the tangy, salty flavour of feta cheese.  The addition of prawns and a chilli and lime dressing makes for a lunch bursting with flavour. And so pretty too!

I bought a pot of ready-prepared melon rather a whole fruit, although the cubes in the package were a little large for this, so I cut them down into about 1cm pieces. Mix together around 100g of watermelon cubes with about 25g feta, also cut into similar size pieces. Add around 100g ready cooked prawns. Finely slice 2 spring onions and add to the mixture. Spritz over the juice of half a lime, a whoosh of tabasco (or finely sliced red chilli if you have it) and a scant drizzle of light olive oil. A generous hand with some fresh chopped mint and coriander plus a little black pepper finishes it nicely.

prawn watermelon and feta wraps

Pile the mixture on top of little gem lettuce leaves.  Makes around 4 topped leaves which serves 1.

Shopping list: little gem lettuce, pot of watermelon chunks, small block of feta, coriander, mint, 100g prawns, lime, chilli, olive oil, spring onions.

Tomato and caramelised garlic tart

May just seemed to disappear this year, which is bit of a shame as it’s one of my favourite months, a month full of potential, the cusp of a new season. Just at the point when you can’t possibly face another root vegetable, suddenly, right on cue, bunches of English asparagus and punnets of early strawberries make their appearance, signifying the start summer, of long bright nights, barbecues in the garden and lazy sunny afternoons.

I spent most of May in California this year, which was a real foodie pleasure. I barely came across the stereotypical monstrous portions of beige food so frequently associated with eating in the US. Not to say that there wasn’t the occasional burger, but it seemed that everywhere I went the main emphasis was on farm-to-fork eating, organic and local. I was spoilt with amazing fresh seafood, juice bars, taquerias, farmers markets, delicious hot garlic fries, a handbag stuffed with peanut butter cups….not to mention a fulfilled ambition of eating at the seminal Chez Panisse.

So of all the back-to-reality post-holiday tasks I could choose, this weekend I decided to defrost the freezer! Lurking at the back, amongst the escapee fish fingers and suspect looking bags of egg white, was a packet of puff pastry, still tightly wrapped in clingfilm, which I decided to use up, rather than return to its frosty home. After a quick rummage in the fridge, I decided on this tomato and caramelised garlic tart, with added goat cheese for good measure.

My favourite part of any dish made with puff pastry is the inevitable stodgy, sticky layer that forms between the crisp, flaky top and the filling underneath. And so it is with this tart; sweet tomatoes and garlic ooze their juice into the pastry, forming a satisfyingly sticky layer of tomato soaked goo. Definitely the best bit.

Baking the tart upside down, like a french tarte tatin, makes the whole thing quick and simple, with minimal washing up. I have a nice, small 20 cm frying pan which is ovenproof, so I could cook it all in the one pan. If you don’t have an ovenproof pan of the right size and shape, no harm will come from transferring the tomato mixture into a baking tin for the oven. Read more

Parma ham breadsticks

Parma ham spiral breadsticksA long bank holiday weekend meant plenty of opportunity to get the oven on and do some baking. And what could a better start  than warm, fresh breadsticks interlaced with salty shards of parma ham?

These aren’t the dry, crunchy variety you can buy in the shops; they have a crisp exterior, but retain a tender crumb inside. The spirals of parma ham are alternately soft and melting then crisp and salty where they have been exposed to the heat of the oven. I can think of oodles of things to eat these with – maybe dunked into soup or a runny boiled egg, or maybe with a nice cold pre-dinner aperitif or perhaps as part of a tapas supper.

Breadsticks are a non-scary way to get into bread making, since I don’t think you really need technical perfection for them to taste and look great. The only thing needed is a bit of pre-planning and patience, as the dough needs a good hour or so to rise, but once the dough is made it can be left to its own devices whilst you get on with other things.

Read more

A marshmallow sheep for Easter

Marshmallow sheepNever let it be said that I don’t appreciate a bit of kitsch in the kitchen.  Easter is a great time to set about the kitchen on a sugar-fuelled high and make cutesy little creations like this. I have a little niece and so this was ostensibly made for her; in reality I’m the one who is totally overexcited about it.

It’s a very straightforward creation – a simple chocolate Easter egg meticulously covered with mini marshmallows. This might be a good project to do with children, although they would need to be fairly patient children, as it does need a little attention to detail and time to let it set now and then. Read more